Blue Eye Dragon

Restrained Oriental artwork has turned the old St Bede's church hall into something of a neighbourhood temple where local families flock for the home-style cooking of Taiwan - an eclectic journey around Chinese regional classics thanks to practised chef Jade Huang. Thinly sliced beef shin cold cuts display great gelatinous texture and tonnes of flavour. Dumplings are of the hearty north Chinese variety, with juicy pork mince tucked inside thick, rustic pastry. Calamari rolls get an intriguing boost from preserved egg yolks wrapped in seaweed, but the calamari itself was a bit chewy. Pork belly is sliced into mouth-sized cubes and satisfyingly slow cooked in a soy-based stock, while steamed wild barra comes dressed with the subtly original house fish sauce. Sticky rice cakes are truly sticky, with sweet ginger syrup and the textural complexity of sweet peanut powder. Don't miss the competition-grade oolong tea. Service can be muddled but it's consistently good-humoured.