Bocados

Sometimes it seems every corner bank building in the country has become a Spanish tapas bar, but the gang at Bocados aren't just riding the wave. They're simply cooking the food they know, turning out small and large plates of sherry-, beer- and wine-friendly food designed to be shared, in their newly spruced-up, candlelit dining room. Pan con tomate - fresh chopped tomato on grilled garlicky bread - should be timed to have with a nutty jamon de Serrano, although it too comes with bread on the side. Everybody orders the house paella, crammed with big, fleshy mussels, prawns and chunks of chicken and chorizo, but for something different, a daily special of lamb escabeche delivers a warm, stewy, vinegary mix of shredded lamb, chickpeas and peppers. Barbecued squid is tender and full-flavoured, but was a little heavy with oil. Order the solid lucuma ice-cream just so you can say you've had lucuma (it's a Peruvian eggfruit). BYO Tuesday and Wednesday only.