Boston

THE LATE-NIGHT COFFEE SHOP IS an underrated thing indeed. Where are they in Sydney? What happened to the caffeine-fuelled underbelly of places such as Kings Cross and the dark corners of the city centre?

Boston fills a small part of the gaping hole, although in a swankier, corporate-friendly way, with its coffee shop and bar at the entrance to the swish Gateway at Macquarie Place (next to the entrance of The Basement).

After wrangling with a tiny space at Grasshopper (in Temperance Lane), the same team of Martin O'Sullivan, John Toubia and Belinda Lai have found themselves with oodles of it in Circular Quay.

So they've created an easy, breezy place complete with a wine-tasting room upstairs, a neat dining area inside and an alfresco spot decorated with a mix of office-ready furniture and grungy touches.

It's about all-day breakfasts that slide into long, boozy lunches, after-work drinks and, of course, late-night caffeine hits.

The latter is what draws Barhop to Boston: the search for a killer Espresso Martini.

The cocktail, supposedly created in 1984 by legendary London bartender Dick Bradsell for a famous model who came into his bar wanting a pick-me-up, has acquired a daggy tag over the years. But Toubia, who has developed a bit of a name for himself as an Espresso Martini aficionado, reckons they've always been cool.

At Grasshopper, they have one on the classics menu that is always popular.

''We don't do energy drinks at Grasshopper and whenever someone asks for a Vodka Red Bull, we'll make them an Espresso Martini instead,'' Toubia says.

The drink received the highest score from a Facebook group named the Espresso Martini Appreciation Society, which Toubia says is run by a few young bacchants who travel the world drinking cocktails along the way.

A good Espresso Martini seems a no-brainer at Boston. They're serving outstanding coffee blended especially for them by Double Roasters in Marrickville and have even poached the star barista, Tim Fullerton, from the inner-west crew.

A fresh shot of the incredibly dark Boston blend is brewed for each cocktail (without freshly ground beans, you're only drinking black gunk, Toubia says) creating a frothy, creamy, fresh head.

Toubia also adds caramel and orange bitters and the result is a thin, bitey, sweet drink with a magnificent foamy top and a sublime, gritty caffeine hit.

''What I like about it is it's just a healthy option for people who want a pick-me-up at night,'' he says.

Elsewhere at Boston, there is a stellar list of mocktails (with optional shots of alcohol), home-made mimosas and Bloody Marys to go with the all-day breakfast menu and lunch menu that spans everything from American pancakes with glazed bacon ($18) to fresh produce-driven sandwiches and rump steak with snails ($31).

Mocktails such as fresh watermelon, mint, agave and apple juice ($7) get a hit of plum wine (add $6) and white grapefruit and cucumber ($7) is spiked with sake or gin (add $7).

The Mary here is done with a huge kick of horseradish, spicy tomato chutney, celery salt and a trio of peppers ($15).

Wines and beers aren't forgotten but are standard lists to please the suits.

This is all about light, easy, fresh drinking and eating.

And, of course, darn good coffee.

YOU'LL LOVE IT IF … you want a boozy brunch or a late-night caffeine hit.

YOU'LL HATE IT IF … you're looking for a gritty, grungy nook.

GO FOR … the Espresso Martini, mocktails, American pancakes.