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Boucher French Bistro

14/20

French$$$

Set in the leafy riverside enclave of Graceville, Boucher is the sort of smart neighbourhood bistro everyone wishes they had within walking distance. Though it looks across a busy street to a train station, it is cosseted by dark, handsome interiors. Calm, assured service ensures a relaxing experience, a signal of the confident French bistro fare offered. A gruyere souffle is textbook, with a twist of sweet caramelised onions and peppery cress. Subtly tangy orange caramel provides a counterpoint to feathery cod brandade and poached bug tail meat. Silky pumpkin puree is seasoned just so and provides the backdrop to a properly pink roast rack of lamb, accented with minted peas and buttery pillows of gnocchi. A generous plate of bouillabaisse packs in expertly cooked shellfish but wants for the lift of the absent rouille. There’s a nod to French classics in the desserts with some modern interpretations such as fennel ice-cream with blood orange souffle and a milk chocolate and rosemary fondant.

And … A different roast is offered each Sunday along with dessert. 

Vibe ... Smart, provincial, modern French bistro.

Best bit ... Attentive service.

Worst bit ... Noise levels on busy nights.

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