Boundary Espresso

LONG-TIME barista and former chef Dave Morgan has wanted to run his own cafe for 10 years. A move to Newcastle delayed his plans but his dream came true three months ago when he opened Boundary Espresso in Preston.

As experienced baristas leave inner-city suburbs (Morgan used to work at Northern Soul and Cafe Orange) to set up on their own, neighbourhoods a little further out are gaining cafes with quality food and serious coffee. Boundary Espresso has quickly built a following of local regulars who know what they want from their coffee.

One of the best things about running his own place is that Morgan, a music lover, gets to choose his own backing tracks.

He mans his reliable Wega machine five days a week ("I know I can get a good coffee out of it") and on the sixth day he has another experienced barista fill in to ensure the consistency of the coffee.

He wanted to use Fairtrade organic coffee and always liked Coffee Supreme's blend.

He says he likes the principles behind it, the fact that it's organic and it's "damn good coffee". "It has a nice, rounded flavour that I like," he says. "I prefer chocolate and berry tones rather than citrus ones."

Morgan believes the grind is really important for a good coffee. He likes to have the coffee trickling out like honey and the milk to be silky but not overheated. He says his espresso is almost a ristretto.

My flat white arrives promptly, the dark crema seeping up from beneath. A glass of water accompanies the coffee, which is full-bodied with a touch of fruity sweetness.

The former chef wants to offer simple but tasty food, so sourcing good ingredients is important. The fruit toast by Loafer Bread Organic Bakery (Fitzroy North) takes three days to proof. Gluten-free bread comes from Fitzroy's Fatto a Mano.

Meats are from Preston's award-wining Barkly Smokehouse. Tea drinkers can choose from his wife Lea's Leaf Herbal Tea organic range.

Breakfast is an all-day affair and baked free-range eggs are served in lovely ramekins, made by a friend.

Morgan has put his heart and soul into the unpretentious Boundary Espresso, and it shows. He worked on renovating the empty shell with friends and loves the sunny aspect of the old corner shop.

He inherited the horse chime on the front door and decided to use it on his logo and signage.

Morgan says there's a great community feel in the area and the cafe mostly caters for workers and business owners during the week and families at the weekend.