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Brown Sugar

Brown Sugar
Brown SugarSupplied

13.5/20

Mediterranean$$$

A Bondi cafe by day, at night Brown Sugar turns into a cosy restaurant. Truffle oil from its fish pie wafts through the dining room, customers wedge behind tables of the diminutive variety, and the place buzzes. While an outside table is prized when the sun is out, in the evening it's all about the moody lighting, quirky accessorising and fast-paced throb of indoors. The menu cleverly pitches a price point and dish selection that garner a strong local following. The kitchen doesn't push too many boundaries, relying on good solid flavour combinations in entrees such as zucchini flowers stuffed with provolone and pumpkin and plump seared scallops with eggplant puree. There's the occasional miss - a salty duck leg matched with a mushy bed of beetroot - but rich, nutty, almond barramundi with chilli and cauliflower is a winner, as is a deliciously dark chocolate and hazelnut fondant with velvety honey-malt ice cream.

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