Bucci

Tucked into a niche in Macrossan Street, the vivacious Bucci might have an Italian accent, but it's a more modern vernacular than classic Italian, as evident in a entree of locally made burrata; with rocket, blueberries and crisp shards of pancetta, drizzled with truffled honey. Rosy, hay-smoked lamb is presented on a pile of hay, the meat sweet and fragrantly smoky, served with porcini crushed potatoes, chunky pesto and just wilted, oil-dressed spinach. Rag pasta, impossibly delicate is sauced with tender rabbit, finely chopped tomato and capers. Desserts are interpretations of the traditional - a trio of cannoli filled with a nougat parfait comes on a wooden board with a pile of salted almonds, hazelnuts and walnuts; zabaglione is a more substantial version than the norm, served with biscuit crumbs and blueberries. During peak season, Bucci turns over the tables not twice but three times an evening, and with food this good and such a congenial atmosphere, it's not hard to see why.