Bucci

There's nothing shy and retiring about this new kid on the block. Bucci struts its stuff with confidence; open on one side to the vibrant James Street and with its kitchen displayed to diners at the other. Not really the place for a quiet dinner, this vibrant diner is nonetheless a welcome Valley addition. Assaggini ('little tastes') include moreish stuffed crumbed green olives and a delicate baked ricotta lifted by figs and verjuice treacle. Fusilli all'amatriciana is fresh and vibrant, the pancetta, tomato and anchovies bound by a perfectly balanced infusion of garlic, basil, oil and chilli. Pasta, made on the premises, is firm and uniform but a linguine of local spanner crab, chilli, parsley and lemon lacked punch. Non-pasta options such as barramundi with panzanella (bread salad), anchovies and tomato are rustic and hearty. Classic Italian desserts like cannoli and zabaglione fly out of the kitchen. Service is brisk and efficient with a touch of cheekiness befitting the lively surrounds.