Buzo Trattoria

If buzo is Paddington’s go-to dining-out spot, it’s mostly for the feel-good, fail-safe side of its elegantly Italianate menu. Even in summer heat, regulars tuck into rich vincisgrassi (lasagne of porcini, mushroom, prosciutto and truffle) and can’t live without gnocchi, pasta al ragu or the creamy, almondy fabulousness of torta di Verona (pandoro and mascarpone trifle). Others, however, sneak in for whatever offal dish is on that night – chargrilled ox tongue, for example, with celeriac and pickled mustard seeds – or the housemade pasta creations – say, squid ink linguine with broccolini and cuttlefish. And then there are those who just mosey in for the wine – from a fascinating list of imports, locals, naturals and otherwise, seamlessly matched with a little of whatever comestible might appeal. However you come at it, the smart, practised waitstaff, the something-for-everyone menu, the pretty chocolate-box interior and desserts laced with rooftop honey (with saffron and peel, for example) make buzo the essential global local.