Cafe Boheme

On this summer's eve, we could be sitting in an urban French bistro, people-watching from a candle-lit courtyard.

But, French wine in one hand, duck confit in the other, we are in Potts Point, at chef Darren Taylor's new French-inspired cafe.

Taylor's pedigree is impressive - Michelin-starred Restaurant Troisgros in France, Buon Ricordo in Paddington and Bilson's at Circular Quay (when it inhabited the space that is now Quay).

Housed in a wide terrace building, Cafe Boheme has Parisian cafe-style tables and chairs out front.

Inside, through French doors, vintage opera posters hang on the wall but the general mood is more modern with a contemporary chandelier, slim-line banquette seating and neutral colours.

The cafe serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The morning menu is full of familiar dishes with a twist, such as French toast with caramelised pears and vanilla ice-cream, or organic soft-boiled eggs with avocado smash, tomato and Persian feta. Each morning, Taylor bakes a range of pastries in-house including a frangipani and rhubarb tart.

For lunch, he serves soups, sandwiches, salads, antipasto, quiche lorraine and croque madame/monsieur (also available at breakfast and possibly dinner if you ask nicely). Dark chocolate, vanilla bean or dulce de leche milkshakes stand out on the daytime drinks list.

But we have come for dinner, so from just over 20 French and Australian wines we pick a 2012 Far Ago Hill Canyonleigh Reserve pinot gris from the Southern Highlands and a 2011 Monmousseau Touraine sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley.

Both are excellent, particularly with some silky mixed marinated olives and two fat grilled king prawns, spicy in a sparky chermoula marinade drizzled with lemon.

The night's highlight is luscious duck-liver pate with pickled pear and warm toasted bread. Remarkably creamy, it scoops onto the bread like softened ice-cream. Sweetly vinegary pear segments are a good match. Next, velvety ocean trout gravlax, layered over watercress, Spanish onion and capers, is super fresh.

From four mains we pick grilled fillet of Atlantic salmon with lentils, and confit of duck with walnuts, apple slices, mint leaves and potato salad.

The salmon is meltingly tender and well balanced by nutty lentils and an aromatic orange and tarragon vinaigrette.

But the plump duck dish wins. The meat pulls off the bone with just a stroke of the knife. With the warmed potato slices and crunchy apple, it is a dreamy combination.

We have consumed six dishes over three courses, yet there is room for dessert. A meringue with cream and fresh strawberries, raspberries and blueberries is marvellous. And a creme brulee's light, almost frothy custard under its crisp crust is rich but not over-sweet.

The stand-out feature all night has been fresh ingredients cooked with flair rather than fuss. Taylor's dishes are filling but not too heavy or padded out with dull plate-fillers. His pick of Double Roasters coffee, Tea Drop tea and bread from Bronte's Iggy's Bread match the attention to quality.

We are tempted to take home the ready-made foods on offer including beef cheeks braised in red wine and duck liver parfait. Or pick from shelves of gourmet jams, salt, honey, muesli, sweet treats and pasta.

Instead, on paying, we are given exotically wrapped bon-bons to take with us. Italian rather than French, they still leave us feeling magnifique.

Cafe Boheme 
Menu
Traditional and modern French/modern Australian.

Recommended dishes
Duck liver pate with pickled pear, confit of duck, meringue with berries and cream.