Cafe Nice

Barry McDonald's Fratelli Fresh empire is spreading its linguine-like tentacles all over the city. With a new store and Cafe Sopra in Alexandria adding to those in Potts Point, Walsh Bay and Bridge Street, there's never been so much good pasta flying around outside of Italy.

What is sometimes overlooked, however, is the bar culture McDonald is pushing.

Sure there's a line out the door for a table but why not sit up at the bar? Isn't that how the real locals do it?

Perch up on a stool, sip on classy cocktails and hit the aperitivi hard?

The mosaic-lined bar snaking around the front room of Cafe Nice in Circular Quay must be the pick of the Fratelli bunch, not least for its ridiculously good bar menu that offers two courses and a glass of house wine for $29.50.

(My mulloway fillet, cooked with a beautiful crispy skin on celeriac puree, is $29 all on its own if you sit in the restaurant.)

Cafe Nice is the only one of the Fratelli bunch to ditch the usual sleek Italian vibe in favour of the French Riviera.

It's hidden above an Indian restaurant and a fancy hotel and decked out with striped awnings, bunches of tulips, flashes of colour and vintage postcards from St Tropez. And, of course, a view of the Harbour Bridge that never gets old.

Not long ago, this place would have been a godsend when looking for a decent bar in Circular Quay. But with Bulletin Place, Tapavino and La Lupita at the Basement nearby (and Marlowe's Way and Palmer & Co a mere stone's throw), let's call it another feather in the harbourside cap.

Negroni and espresso martini are the must-drinks at the Cafe Sopra bars, but on the Riviera it's all about summery cocktails and light, fresh seafood.

A Lemon and Thyme Smash (Jameson Whiskey, limoncello, thyme, lemon, olive oil, $10) is an easy starter and there are plenty of cute fruity and champagne-based cocktails for a summer evening, like the Coco (Poire William, Bacardi, lemonade, mint, grapefruit, vodka, Cointreau, champagne, $14.50).

They're not the strongest, most artful cocktails. Just fun and flirty. And very reasonably priced.

Despite the theme, the food is not really French, McDonald says.

''It is a lighter, fresher food - lots of olive oil, vegetables and seafood. It's not what we're used to in terms of French food but translates well to an Australian setting.''

The seafood is on the money. Deliciously battered calmars frits with aioli and a whole rainbow trout pan-fried with almonds are beautiful.

Fratelli's famous al dente pasta is still on the menu but after sharing some starters, the spaghettini with pistou, breadcrumbs and reggiano seems too heavy. Ditto the beef cheek on a huge bed of creamy polenta. We end up rolling out of there.

The house wine included in the $29.50 deal is not half bad. There's a sauv blanc, pinot gris, chardonnay, rose, pinot noir, cabernet merlot, nebbiolo or shiraz.

The best part about sitting up at the bar, however, is chatting to the bartenders. Our Argentinian chap is a keeper - he's recommending drinks left, right and centre, keeping an eye on the clock to make sure we get to our Opera House gig on time, talking us through the menu and cracking jokes while we chow on bread. How's that for multi-tasking? You don't get that in the restaurant.

You'll love it if … you'll happily sit up at the bar to get a good deal

You'll hate it if … you're expecting the usual Fratelli pasta/pizza extravaganza

Go for … rainbow trout, Lemon and Thyme Smash, beef cheek