Cafe Nice

Regular readers of this column would know it is all about good value meals. So it's quite a big call to claim we've found Sydney's cheapest fine dining deal. Where? Cafe Nice, and its menu du bar, offering two courses of seriously good food and a glass of wine for $24.95.

The menu du bar imitates the prix fixe menus du jour you find in bistros throughout France, and reiterates the notion that you don't have to eat badly just because you want to eat quickly.

Tucked down the bottom of Phillip Street, right next to Circular Quay, Cafe Nice is part of Barry McDonald's Fratelli Fresh and Cafe Sopra empire. Where Fratelli and Sopra have an Italian flavour, however, Cafe Nice has a French - and specifically a nicoise - one. It's a minor distinction; Nice was once part of Italy and the food is very influenced by its Italian neighbours.

It's a short stroll to the Opera House, and open from 5pm. The space is a bit weird, with its view of the underbelly of the Cahill Expressway but the clever interior design is fresh and bright.

Dishes change with the season but stalwarts include entrees such as a generous tile of creamy duck liver pate with toast, and crisp fried calamari with garlicky aioli. There are a couple of fish mains as well as a glorious roast chicken for two plus minute steak or rump cap, served with shoestring fries and a choice of either dijon butter, bearnaise sauce or roast garlic with creme fraiche. We opt for the flavoursome, slightly chewy rump cap with a textbook tarragon-laced bearnaise; close our eyes and we reckon we could be in Paris. Sides such as green beans with hazelnuts and creme fraiche are extra.

Desserts are heavy on the French classics: honey, orange and cinnamon creme caramel or dark chocolate mousse with honeycomb.

The included wine is Fratelli's excellent house plonk - three reds, three whites and one rosé. If you want to up the Gallic ante the rest of the list is French. The chatty bartender upsells me to a stunning Chateau de Beru chablis. I think he's doing it from the goodness of his heart until I notice the additional $13 on the bill.

At these prices, however, I'm not complaining.

THE LOW-DOWN
DO Consider ordering the roast chicken for two ($56 on the restaurant menu). With an extra course each and wine, it's a real bargain.
DON'T Be surprised if the barman upsells you on the wine. Go with it.
DISH Rump cap with bearnaise and pomme frites.
VIBE A touch of the south of France in the heart of the CBD.