Cafe Paci

It’s Pasi not Paci but then, this is a pop-up. Or is it? Pasi Petanen (long-time right-hand chef to Mark Best at Marque) has become a semi-temporary lodger in this former Mexican tequila party joint, barely refurbished in steely grey with sparse, neo-Nordic tables dotted across the wide open floor. From his curtained-off kitchen come quirky, inventive combinations - pretty as a picture, ripe with intriguing aromas, and often obtuse names. BLB? That’s a lush, wet, smoky, salty assembly of bacon, lettuce and bonito. Pho-tato? Strands of potato ‘noodles’: sliced wagyu, cress, enoki, Asian-inspired in name only. We love the sticky-crusted rye and potato bread, a spectacular carrot, yoghurt and licorice dessert and the bitter edge of the witlof jam served with comte cheese and shards of Earl Grey meringue. Nothing is quite what it seems. And who knows? Tomorrow it might just be gone.

And … Set menus only: quantity and quality well-matched to price.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Seasonal, post-molecular, curious and curiouser.
Best bit Every dish is a surprise.
Worst bit Settle in for the duration.