Cafe Sopra

A rambunctious lunch crowd pours into this subterranean Italian-industrial den in the Burns Philp building. Amid boxes stacked with nebbiolo, high-backed stools, communal bars and tables, chefs frantically flatten and twirl silky dough and slice creamy mounds of mozzarella. This is one of the most authentic pizza pit-stops in the CBD. Which is why the place is packed with pinstriped workers gorging on crisp, golden discs strewn with roasted wild mushrooms, or superbly fatty salumi. Salads harmonise perfectly, such as slices of prosciutto covered with shards of pickled watermelon. Blackboard specials change frequently, as do the paper placemat menus. There may be penne with osso buco, a huge plate loaded with fall-apart veal shank stew, flecked with welcome hits of chilli. It may be hard to flag down the amiable staff but persist, because a demurely wobbling panna cotta with stewed cherries is worth squeezing in. Flavours are bold and gutsy, produce is impeccably sourced; just arrive early to avoid the snaking queue.