Cafeteria

Light, airy, buzzy, busy - that's Cafeteria in a nutshell. The week's sole dinner service, on Friday nights, offers Eugene Lavery's diverse, ever-changing menu that might include local yabbies with cauliflower skordalia and capocollo (cured pork), or perhaps 'traditional Irish stew, made by an Irishman'. But it's the daytime throng on which Cafeteria thrives. Seasonal, artfully plated antipasto might comprise asparagus with hollandaise, prawn and chorizo skewers, and cheese-filled, battered and fried zucchini flowers. Follow with the generously proportioned seafood risotto of mussels, clams and squid, with the earthy punch of saffron, or perhaps a roast beef and asparagus salad, a hulking lunch dish befitting big appetites. Desserts are mainly house-made, displayed behind glass, and might include macarons or dense, fudgy brownies. Breakfast runs until noon; if fried potato, black pudding, roast capsicum and poached egg isn't enough to encourage early(ish) rising, what is?