14/20
Contemporary$$$
Sashay through the fashion zone and saunter into this dining-room-in-a-shopping-centre with its parquetry ceiling and floodlit glass floor. This is Belgian chef Dave de Belder's design playground - shaping modernist menus inspired by his native Flanders. Let the fun begin with soft, sweet veal tartare served with glistening watercress cream, aged parmesan, still-crunchy spears of baby asparagus, squelchy cucumber roe and frozen oyster 'pearls'. A wagyu rump entree includes a collation of crisp potato, sweet roasted fennel and feathery swirls of egg yolk and sea urchin-infused butter. The brilliance of the bouillabaisse is in the broth, poured over a gleaming fillet of Spanish mackerel, pureed fennel and a bundle of nitrogen-blasted orange zest. Lamb neck, pressed with pistachio crumbs, pairs with airy anchovy foam, blanched broccoletti, kohlrabi and creamy cauliflower puree. A quenelle of grapefruit sorbet, cube of gin-and-tonic mango jelly and banana ice-cream is the ultimate designer dessert.
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