Catalina

The high-voltage glamour of its early years may feel slightly less electric these days. But sitting on the concrete balcony that juts out over the water, watching seaplanes rock in their moorings, who cares? There are few places in Sydney where food matches views; here they give it a good go, with a fitting emphasis on seafood. An open lasagne of Moreton Bay bugs places medallions of white flesh on al dente patches of pasta scattered with avruga. A simple but spanking-fresh snapper fillet is draped across a potato and garlic mash, doused in a zingy lemon caper butter. Duck comes as a finely smoked fillet and rich, pull-apart confit leg with a sweet-bitter marmalade tart and cavolo nero. The compelling dessert list is made for ladies who lunch. darkly caramelised figs with a bitter caramel mousse on flaky brik pastry. Catalina may be close to 20 years old, but this grand dame of the east still knows how to work it.