Cavallero

With high ceilings, whitewashed walls and handsomely worn floorboards, Cavallero is both grand and airy. The seasonal menu (brunch until 5pm) revels in stylish twists on home-style dishes- bubble-and-squeak with cabbage, lentil and potato roesti or a crisped slender fillet of wild barramundi. 'Collingwood meatballs' are doused in fruity sugo, the reuben is a towering plate of classic New York and the tasting board has the best of every world (including creamy pear salad hiding a crumpled blanket of prosciutto). They make their own sourdough and smallgoods, too. At 6pm dinner kicks in with share plates and a clutch of meaty mains. Delightful.