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Centonove

Centonove, restaurant, Kew, Melbourne.
Centonove, restaurant, Kew, Melbourne.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

Italian$$$

The locals keep Centonove busy, coming back for consistently good classical Italian fare and superb service. This 1930s corner landmark has the buzz of a bar downstairs and a more traditional restaurant feel upstairs, with its art and mirrors, but both spaces ring with laughter and conversation. Sometimes the dishes are simple, as in fresh, moist flounder that appears often as a special and lifts off the bone; or zesty, lemon-crusted cotoletta topped with cabbage, radicchio and parmesan salad. And sometimes they are more artful, like pork- and veal-filled agnolotti made with paper-thin pasta, soaked in velvety sage-butter sauce cut with aged balsamic. But either way, you'll be tempted to go the full three rounds, with coffee-soaked tiramisu that lives up to its pick-me-up name and is so light that it melts on the tongue, or dense hazelnut chocolate ganache with smooth chestnut puree-filled millefoglie and chocolate crumble.

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