Cervo

Cervo is Italian for deer, which explains the wall-mounted stag's head, the monochrome deer mural, and the timber-clad hunting-lodge feel of this Northbridge newcomer. It also explains a delicate starter of paper-thin venison carpaccio, deftly touched with tarragon emulsion. But that's where the connection ends and a likeable combination of classic Italian favourites and not-so-classic pizzas begins. A roast lamb and tzatziki, a chicken tandoori and a crisp, American-inspired barbecue 'carne' pizza topped with ham, salami, chorizo and smoky barbecue sauce all work surprisingly well, in a non-Italian, new-Australian way. The cured meats plate is generous and well presented; golden arancini are fat with mushroom and mozzarella; and braised lamb shoulder is pulled, shredded, and formed into a giant polpettone (meatball) that melts in the mouth. Servings tend to be big, staff bustle, and desserts stick to the classics - panna cotta, tiramisu - with no real surprises. But then, that's why they're classics.