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Chairman Mao

Chairman Mao
Chairman MaoSupplied

13/20

Chinese$$

The Anzac Parade traffic roars past, but for those who stop and slide open Chairman Mao's tinted doors, a blast of colour and spice-laden excitement awaits. Bright orange walls house a cast of Great Leaders, in photographs, propaganda posters and vintage pop art. The chillies and garlic cloves hanging from the walls may be fake, but the intensely aromatic food is the real deal. witness the loyal Chinese crowd hunkering down for home-style Hunanese. Pork stars across the copious menu, as braised ears, stir-fried stomach, steamed belly with special preserved vegetables (so indulgently wobbly it melts off your chopsticks) or the sell-out house special of The Chairman's favourite red-braised pork. Smoky, peppery, vinegary notes linger throughout, but it's the spice that sends you into a spin. Stir-fried lamb with cumin and hot red chilli, and spicy chicken braised with tea tree mushrooms, are lip-numbingly good. Hunan-style dumplings in hot and sour soup are a milder form of pleasure.

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