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Charcoal Lane

Charcoal Lane Article Lead - narrow
Charcoal Lane Article Lead - narrowSupplied

14/20

Modern Australian$$$

Gleaming parquetry, fish-trap lightshades and splashes of abstract colour on the walls form a stylish setting for a laid-back clientele taking in Gertrude Street's passing parade through low Victorian windows. Slick staff deliver blushingly pink saltbush lamb loin with honey and mint 'vinaigrette', or perhaps a sticky wedge of glazed salmon, teamed with cured trout and tomato-cardamom sauce. Some dishes star distinctively Australian ingredients: you might find wallaby tartare with horseradish potato salad and Melba toast; a bowl of lemon-myrtle angel-hair pasta with West Australian marron, tomato and young basil; or paperbark-smoked barramundi fillet on parsnip cream. Vegetarians generally have an option in each course - perhaps an entree of fat, braised artichokes with a goat's cheese tart, a main of flowing polenta with wild mushrooms and coddled egg. Desserts - such as bittersweet 'frozen liquid chocolate' with cherry icecream - are as good as they sound.

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