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Charlie's Restaurant

Kylie Northover

Calamari with smashed peas.
Calamari with smashed peas.Luis Enrique Ascui

Modern Australian$$

WHERE AND WHAT

It's a funny stretch, the ''service road'' at the start of Queens Parade where it veers off Alexandra Parade, and surprisingly quiet; there's not even much foot traffic, save for locals walking dogs or heading to Edinburgh Gardens.

The recent overhaul of the Marmalade and Soul cafe - formerly the Recreation Hotel - on the corner of Grant Street, might change that. At the newly branded Charlie's Restaurant, former Charcoal Lane chef Andy Bedford has created a modern Australian menu with the odd European touch, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.

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Inside Charlie's laid back interior.
Inside Charlie's laid back interior.Luis Enrique Ascui

WHERE TO SIT

The casual fit-out includes an open kitchen and a big communal table in the back room that almost feels like a private dining room. Possibly a better option, the seats outside are widely spaced and under the shade of Queens Parade's big plane trees.

WHEN TO GO

Wednesday-Friday, 8am-11pm; Saturday, 7.30am-11pm; Sunday 7.30am-4pm.

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DRINK

The wine list is largely local (Yarra Valley Toolangi chardonnay; Clare Valley riesling; Margaret River cab merlot) save for some expertly selected internationals, among them a Rias Baixas Albarino and a Rheingau riesling, and has some very affordable drops. There's a good range of beer, too, from Melbourne Bitter through to Bridge Road Pale Ale. Coffee is No Label, from Tanna Island in Vanuatu.

EAT

Charlie's is open for breakfast, but it's at lunch and dinner when Bedford's skills come to the fore. The lunch menu has toasted Turkish rolls (starting at $9.50) and the obligatory burger, as well as heartier dishes such as spiced calamari, flash fried and meltingly tender, served with smashed peas, harissa aioli, and a decent sized side salad of coriander, chilli, cucumber and radish, for $19. The classic steak sandwich - huge! - is lifted above your standard steak sanga with thyme-roasted portobello mushrooms, onion jam, bacon and Swiss cheese ($18).

The dinner menu is more ''fine dining'' than the atmosphere suggests - entrees include ham hock and leek tart, broad beans, frissee and quail eggs ($14) and crab, potato and spinach tortellini with lemon, parsley and baby caper beurre noisette ($15). Mains, the most expensive coming in at $31, include fish of the day with potato, mussel and leek broth and caramelised salsify ($27) - a root veg also known as ''vegetable oyster'' - and pan-seared duck breast with fondant potato, heirloom carrots, confit duck parcels and bitter orange sauce ($31). Desserts are worth saving room for: Bedford's banoffee pie ($14) comes with chocolate and lavender mousse (changing soon to chocolate and rosemary) and chewy caramelised bananas.

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WHO'S THERE

Families (there's a great kids' menu) and locals stopping in for the $7 cake and coffee deal during the day, and a more varied crowd at night.

WHY BOTHER

Local ingredients and hip-restaurant quality dishes at gastro-pub prices; warm, friendly service.

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