Charntra

TAMARIND, chilli, lime juice, fermented fish - these are uncompromising ingredients that need a firm hand. A good Thai cook is a flavour wrangler, able to add enough sweet, enough sour, enough salty, enough heat to create vivid and balanced dishes.

Charntra Klaywong, who grew up just north of Bangkok, is such a woman. After gaining permanent residency, she jumped ship from Colonel Tan's (sister restaurant of fine Thai diner Cookie) and opened her own place in Middle Camberwell.

Klaywong's grandmother taught her the classics - curries, pad Thai, massaman - and Charntra's menu is strong on central Thai dishes. All of them are made on-site, bar the ducks from Pacific House, and the meats (eye fillet, lamb backstrap) are good quality.

The specials might be a whole barramundi or fabulous chilli mussels steamed and in a spicy coconut brew with big rounds of galangal, stalks of lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves and Thai basil - so good and a steal at $9.90 for entree, $21.90 main. Mussels specials run Tuesday and Wednesday.

Chicken tenderloin comes skewered and slathered in a coconut-creamy satay, the meat juicy and tender - have it as part of a choose-your-own platter that might include a money bag with a sparky pork and chicken mix, and good spring rolls.

In the larb gai, two crunchy-fresh cups of iceberg lettuce cradle spicy, herby minced chicken with a whack of lime juice, fish sauce, coriander and chilli (it could have been a touch hotter, so ask if that's a priority).

Coconut-based curries are rich and creamy, the green with juicy pieces of chicken breast and tenderloin with a pleasing sourness and bright citrus. It, too, could have had a touch more pow.

Leading the all-Thai staff is self-described ''front-of-house fat man'' Keith, so reluctant to pull focus from Klaywong that he refused to give his last name but whose presence ratchets up the dining experience.

He says it's the first time he's worked in hospitality - his ''real job is in business'' - yet he manages the 34-seater room like a pro (it seats 50 at a squash and, at times, the kitchen can stumble under pressure). No bowl to discard your mussels shells? Here it is. Out of skinny milk? He'll duck out and buy a carton. Banter required over there, more wine needed here - Charntra's regulars love him, and he them. ''I get a fresh lot of people to annoy every night,'' he says. ''This has become more like a club.''

His great asset is explaining the ins and outs of the Thai dishes without making customers feel stupid. At our table, dessert was turned into a game. Guess how the pea-sized, rice-flour balls in the bualoi (a hot, sweet coconut soup with scrumptious, tart lychees) got their colour? The pink one from beetroot, the orange one, sweet potato.

It's a fun local and you're best to book.nrousseau@theage.com.au

Where 740 Riversdale Road, Camberwell, 9888 4138

Prices Entrees, $7.90-$9.90; soups and salads, $8.90-$21.90; mains, $17.90-$24.90; desserts, $8

Cards MC V Eftpos

Licensed and BYO (no corkage)

Open Daily, 6-11pm

Website charntrarestaurant.com.au

Cuisine Thai