Chicken Institute

Nope, it's not a special educational facility for fancy hens, but a Korean-style fried chicken shack a few doors down from the once great Hopetoun Hotel (RIP, you dear old boozer).

Heaven Kim, ex-head chef of Paramount Coffee Project, is behind the menu here. You might remember her work from PCP's many expressions of waffle including, at one point, fried chicken with Japanese curry sauce.

So, on paper, it certainly ticks a few Surry Hills boxes.

The grey walls (and we stare at these a lot – much of the seating is a basic bench with stools facing them) are covered in massive stencils of chickens and roosters, the light fittings are all factory worker chic and the tunes pretty much just scream SPRRRIIIINNNNGGGG BRRRREEEEEEEAAAAAK.

On the plate? It's a mixed bag. Kimchi poutine gets better the longer you leave it, though I'd suggest that it's probably worth eating a few more actual poutines before messing with the program – the skinny fries don't really soak up the gravy, the requisite cheese curds are grated cheese and the kimchi element just adds a sort of acrid tang. Still, it's a fun idea.

Grilled corn is incredibly juicy, smothered in chipotle mayonnaise, grated manchego cheese and a little coriander garnish.

Floppy, doughy steamed buns are filled with spheres of crumbed eggplant, more of that chipotle dressing and pickled cucumber – sorry vegetarians, but it's just all a bit carby and under-seasoned.

To the reason we're actually here: the institute bit. The fried chicken. It's fine. In fact, it's finer than fine. It's pretty good. And if you go for the bigger pieces, it's juicy even, with a crunchy, highly spiced exterior. Add a good squeeze of lime and a few pickles and you've got a flavour party.

Should it have an entire restaurant devoted to it? Well, it's certainly a big call. Especially when you live in the same city as Arisun, Mary's, Hartsyard, Moon Park and Hot Star. What it can boast, though, is a takeaway menu and close proximity to a lot of pubs.

And a vanilla-ice-cream-filled, fish-shaped waffle, covered in peanuts and caramel.

I still have zero idea why they serve it with a steak knife and a rubber glove. What is it they say? "If you have to ask, you'll never know."

THE LOW-DOWN
Pro tip Chance a walk in and there's a very likely possibility you'll also be staring at a wall for the night – the big communal tables are the first to go.
Try this The goldfish ice-cream waffle is sweet fun made vaguely blue with the addition of that rubber glove.
Like this? Go full-tilt boogie at Ayam Goreng 99 and eat the fried chicken, bones 'n' all. 464 Anzac Parade, Kingsford, (02) 9697 0030.