Choi's

After more than 20 years here, Choi's still hums. It stays faithful to being a suburban Chinese, keeping BYO locals loyal with lemon chicken and baskets of dumplings, but, just as its decor is both elegantly oriental and boldly western, Choi's wears two faces. It's a special-occasion destination too, with a suit-clad sommelier, tablecloths and beautiful black and silver chopsticks with which to indulge in Choi's current enthusiasm for fusion cooking. One entree mixes prawns with blue cheese (crumbed and melting, it works!). Quail dumplings are a splendid diversion from mainstream Chinese entrees - big, deep-fried pastry pouches of meat, vegetables and spice. There's no messing with Peking duck though. It's as you want: large chunks of tender poultry with satisfyingly crunchy skin. Eye fillet has a gentle whisper of lemongrass. Tender scallops get a kick with garlic, chilli and ginger. Red beans and maple syrup: now there's a combo - a terrific one when brought together in the red-bean paste pancake for dessert.