The Sydney Morning Herald logo
Advertisement

Choi's

The Crabmeat and Avocado Spring Roll with butter sauce at Choi's in Hawthorn.
The Crabmeat and Avocado Spring Roll with butter sauce at Choi's in Hawthorn.Chris Hopkins

13.5/20

Chinese$$

More than 20 years of consistent popularity with locals hasn't lured Choi's into leaning on its laurels. Patrons stream in for clean flavours and generous serves, an elegant atmosphere and perhaps even the soft-backed chairs. Unobtrusive waitstaff work the super-glitzy split-level room, recommending dishes and deftly delivering the goods. Spring onion pancake and garfish get things moving, the former puffed up beautifully from the pan, the latter teamed with finely diced carrot and mushroom, encased in delicate batter. For mains, venturing beyond sweet and sour pork pays dividends. Lamb cutlets dotted with mustard seeds are pink and tender (a knife and fork are provided), while the seductive richness of crisp-skinned duck is balanced with refreshing pickled ginger, apple and a touch of fish sauce. Although desserts aren't wildly creative, lychee panna cotta is simple and pleasant, and plump toffee banana shatters satisfyingly.

Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.

Sign up

From our partners

Advertisement
Advertisement