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Chris's Restaurant

The chef's Greek heritage is evident in many dishes.
The chef's Greek heritage is evident in many dishes.Supplied

Good Food hat15/20

Mediterranean$$$

Chris’s hilltop eyrie is an airy room of stone and wood that lets its stellar location do the talking. Floor-to-ceiling glass reveals slender gum trees, steep paddocks of sheep and cattle, and sea that spreads to the horizon. Come early for dinner to sit at polished wooden tables with crisp napkins, and savour the view at dusk – and whatever you do, come hungry. The owner-chef’s Greek heritage is evident in many of the dishes – things like fried kefalograviera with walnuts, tomato and pesto – and in the sheer generosity of servings. A main of yielding, slow-cooked lamb shoulder fragrant with Levantine spices might almost serve two; the day’s fish, often caught locally, comes atop a lavish pile of juicy eggplant, zucchini, tomato and potato, studded with crumbled feta. Textbook creme brulee spiked with orange and cardamom makes a match for dessert wine from Samos, a sweet finish before the winding journey home.

And … You can avoid the post-prandial drive by staying in one of Chris’s on-site villas or studios.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe:
Hilltop hideaway.
Best bit: The extraordinary view.
Worst bit: The steep road back to town afterwards.

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