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Church St Enoteca

Good Food hat15/20

Italian$$$

With so much trattoria-level informality in Melbourne, it feels almost a novelty to arrive at Church Street Enoteca's immaculate, Deco-inflected room, set with well-spaced, linen-clothed tables and vintage posters. The food of newish chef Sebastian McQuarrie reinforces the sense of occasion, pushing the Italian envelope far past comfort-food status. Carne cruda is characteristic, being all it should be and more. grass-fed eye fillet, set on an egg-yolk emulsion, is hand-chopped, its proper texture contrasted with capers - crisp-fried for crunch - and onion rings. Char-grilled sea bream fillets come with tomatoes two ways. first as a broth flushed with white wine, chilli, fennel and shallots, redolent of a refined bouillabaisse; the second as a bracing sorbet. Wet-roasted suckling lamb is more classic, but its parmesan crust just as beautifully executed. Desserts are modern and excellent, exemplified by an artfully plated platter of gianduja, hazelnut dacquoise, caramelised banana and brown butter ice-cream. A complete package.

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