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Cibo e Vino

Cibo e Vino Article Lead - narrow
Cibo e Vino Article Lead - narrowSupplied

13/20

Italian$$

It's opposite a shopping mall and obscured by a bus depot, but follow the locals flocking to this pleasant eatery, where ceiling-clinging fairy lights enliven a mustard-and-burgundy room. A solid Italian diner is a boost to any neighbourhood, but in this neck of the woods, it's a godsend. Highlights include blue-eye trevalla cooked in a foil parcel that's cut open to reveal wine-based juices strewn with pliant cherry tomatoes, shaved zucchini and Ligurian olives. Top billing, though, goes to the shoestring fries, generously flavoured with chopped parsley, thyme, finely grated parmesan and chilli. Not all the dishes charm. Oversized gnocchi were gluggy, and a slightly dry duck paired with baked figs lacked sweetness. Friendly waitstaff make diners feel at home, although wine knowledge and bottle service could be better. Finish on a high note with an oozing chocolate pudding, topped with a few intoxicated amarena cherries and served with custardy, house-made vanilla ice-cream with vanilla flecks aplenty.

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