Cicciolina

Loud, lively and full every night, this bistro is still sexy and familiar almost 20 years on, much like La Cicciolina - the minxish Italian porn-queen-turned-politician after whom it's named. Inside the dimly lit dining room, waitstaff greet the never-ending band of loyal locals by name and shoehorn them into swivel bucket chairs and banquettes around close-set timber tables. Virginia Redmond's French-inspired menu of fixtures has a rustic Italian accent, while blackboard specials add variety and seasonality. Signature soft, creamy lamb brains come bound in basil, eggplant and crisp prosciutto; blue swimmer crab-flecked souffle in rich champagne and chive veloute; and generous chunks of juicy crumbed veal on buttered chats. If something sweet beckons, creme brulee, sticky-date pudding and soft-centred chocolate fondant rank as favourites. Occasionally service is so-so, and not all dishes sparkle, but at Cicc' it's never just about food. There's a genuinely convivial, club-like, egalitarian feel about the place.