Circa

Circa’s solid foundations have come to the fore in the past year, during which The Prince Hotel’s flagship restaurant has weathered ownership shuffles and the loss of some key players (a consulting executive chef, a co-head chef and a pastry chef).

Despite the changes, Circa remains St Kilda’s most obviously glamorous restaurant, with a wine list and wine service that’s still among the best in Melbourne. British chef Matthew Wilkinson’s approach may not be as fanciful as some predecessors, but he is committed to quality ingredients and interesting combinations. Marron from Western Australia might be poached in butter and served with a tangle of shaved cuttlefish and silky parmesan custard, while a slow-cooked duck breast could be simply plated with baby vegetables and a tiny Jerusalem-artichoke tart. Cooking skills are strong – juicy pot-roasted rabbit proves that – but Circa’s desserts, like a heavy-handed jam doughnut served with coconut custard, might be missing some of their former artistry.

Service, too, can lack finesse, with staff occasionally becoming scarce towards meal’s end. Still, Circa manages to conjure a sense of occasion and remains a good choice for those after a Big Night Out.