Colonel Tan’s

The dark red-lit interior of Revolver may elicit flashbacks of sordid nights for many a Melburnian, but head to the back of the building to find a more wholesome scene where young and old dine on creative Thai dishes. Start with a share-plate of betel leaves and roll fragrant parcels of tangy snapper infused with chilli, lime and ginger. Move on to superbly presented curries: swimming with fleshy soft-shell crab, or stacked with root vegetables and smoky eggplant relish. Otherwise go for a fusion dish, such as chicken kaffir-lime burger or signature ‘Bangkok bolognese’, a tomato-based pork mince on glass noodles.