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It's a Melbourne postmodern touchstone. a theatrical upstairs space in the 1922 Curtin House building that for 10-plus years has satisfied with its reinterpretation of the classics. And still it's on-trend - the Thai street food from chef Karen Batson suitably sharp with lime, ginger, dried shrimp, coconut and chilli, and the interior warehouse pastiche still pleasing crowds with its spectacle. Suits or sneakers? Whatever. It's all about being here, beneath ornate high-ceiling plasterwork, beside a marble beer hall bar of desire, snacking on ka-pow mussel pancakes with playful textures (and tastes of green pawpaw, coriander and cashews), eating from retro-plastic tableware and drinking from seriously long beer and wine lists. Share standout plates of wonderfully fatty and salty pork belly red curry, or peppered pork sticks wrapped in betel leaves with a sweet peanut dipping sauce, and - why not? - banana fritters for afters. Service is nicely informal, tunes funky.