Coppersmith

Just as ''city laneway bar'' or ''Brunswick band venue'' are instantly recognisable tropes on Melbourne's bar scene, the species known as ''South Melbourne hotel'' comes with its own particular set of preconceptions. A certain designer blokiness - meticulous timber floors, lengthy beer lists, quality steak - is usually in play, often with some kind of sports element driving the design. There might also be a slight whiff of old school tie.

Coppersmith, a new boutique hotel risen from within the shell of the former Cricket Club Hotel in Clarendon Street, both meets and defies South Melbourne hotel expectations.

On the defiance front, Coppersmith starts by being a fully functioning boutique hotel, complete with smart accommodation upstairs, and a high level of hospitable service: the kind you get when staff are as focused on meeting the needs of their overnight guests as they are on those stopping by for a beer and a snack.

It also eschews the sport-as-decor theme, as if being staggering distance from the grand prix racetrack at Albert Park is all the credentials it needs to tick that box.

Still, there's no denying the designer blokey feel of the main bar, possibly because there are so many blokes using the space, but that chicken-or-the-egg discussion can be had another time. Regardless, the dimensions and feel of the place (courtesy of Hassell design group) feel decidedly trad-pub though with more space, better ventilation and cleaner lines. The finishes are all timber, stone and black metal, with masculine copper details here and there.

There are plenty of places to both stand and lean or to sit, including a timber-lined dining room with comfortable leather banquette seating at the back, and the main bar, with its well-proportioned stools and the best sight lines in the house.

The booze list is strong, interesting and well priced. Of most interest to the crowd is the extensive beer list (genre box ticked) that includes about 15 on tap, plus a cider.

The list starts with Carlton Draught and then moves towards the craftier end of the scale (Mornington Peninsula Brewery Pale Ale) via the likes of Asahi Super Dry and Peroni. It's backed by a good range of bottled beers.

The wine list runs over six pages, with a decent number of wines available by the glass. It has an Aussie lean while still including a smattering of stuff from New Zealand and the Old World to round things out.

Cocktails are a highlight, skilfully made, classic, constructed using quality spirit and packing a proper punch, while an extensive collection of whiskies - Scottish, Irish, Japanese, Canadian, American - might attract its own fan club.

Bar snacks are good, too, as they should be with chef Daniel Southern (ex-Comme) at the helm.

Fries, schnitzel, a burger and a steak sandwich are all gathered on the greatest bar food hits list, joined by more Euro bistro fare such as charcuterie, fish pie and a hearty tripe, pigs' trotters and bean dish.

Coppersmith certainly feels part of the South Melbourne hotel genre but it also clearly, successfully widens the definition. Add it to your South Melbourne repertoire, even if you're not a bloke.

Drink this With about 15 beers on tap from breweries big and boutique, it's a good idea to give the draught a whirl.
Eat this The ''fish finger ribbon'' - crumbed fish, white bread, green sauce, go!
Check this The roof-top terrace is a great place to catch some views.