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Cornershop

Cornershop Article Lead - narrow
Cornershop Article Lead - narrowSupplied

13.5/20

Modern Australian$$

After the invariably frenetic day trade, evenings at this popular cafe-restaurant are more sedate. With artsy lightshades throwing spectral shapes on the walls and attentive staff flitting among recycled wood tables, it's one of the west's most charming spots. David Danks' share-friendly dishes still mostly take their cues from the Levant, but there's a smattering of French and Asian flavours too. A terrine sporting hearty chunks of confit duck comes with crisp slivers of pide, while the sweetness of lightly charred Hervey Bay scallops is craftily offset by a splodge of salty taramasalata. Pan-fried sardines on a tumble of kipfler potato and spinach is a solid, if not mind-blowing, offering; better is roasted quail, dusted with polenta and served with a smear of zesty orange and peach chutney (you'll find it hiding with the hummus underneath the cress salad). A disc of black treacle cake, floating in vanilla-flecked custard with a side of clotted cream, makes a comforting finale.

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