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Cornershop

12.5/20

Modern Australian$$

Cornershop is quintessential Yarraville. charismatic, unpretentious and quietly dedicated to the good things in life. Occupying prime real estate next to the Sun Theatre, it's become a mainstay of local dining, as popular with breakfasting families as it is with solo diners and couples agonising over the mezze-style menu. All find an easy welcome in this laidback cafe-restaurant, its whitewashed bricks strung with fractal shadows cast by the recycled-wire lampshades. A mix'n'match meal might consist of lamb shoulder, slow-roasted with Moorish spices and relaxing on a couch of cracked wheat; Crystal Bay prawns with ruby grapefruit and orange wedges; a 'fattoush' of cos lettuce, shards of pita and tangy shanklish; or fat, salty feta and zucchini fritters in puddles of cumin yoghurt. Creme brulee, distinguished with dates and Kahlua, is good enough to justify another rendition of this cafe staple, and the service is, appropriately, more cheerful than formal.

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