Courgette

Private from the street and with a large window overlooking a small courtyard garden, Courgette feels almost like a home dining room, albeit a very elegant one. White tablecloths, beautiful glassware, plush carpet and low noise levels make this a fitting backdrop for James Mussillon's fine food. A mixture of blue swimmer crab and avocado rests on a translucent disc of tomato jelly dotted with lime mayonnaise. It sets the scene for a second course of Mandagery Creek venison, tiny strips roasted just right and sitting in their own juices, beautifully complemented by beetroot-coloured goat's curd. Continuing the theme, a striking streak of beetroot paints the plate for a main dish of Atlantic salmon, its crisp skin topped with a generous sprinkle of salt and a sweet, succulent scallop. A feather-light blackberry 'cloud' with yoghurt sorbet and honeycomb is all sweetness and light.