Cupitt’s Kitchen

Central Ulladulla is a triumph of chain-store blandness, a charming coastal town gone awry. But don’t despair. Minutes from the highway through winding paddocks lies an old stone country cottage, encircled by neatly rowed vines and gentle hills. It’s here that the Cupitt family, winemakers and local champions, put their wares on show. And a very fine show it is too. From switched-on staff - accommodating, informed and informative - to a mostly local menu, this is the complete regional package. A beetroot and radish salad is pretty-in-pink (and shades thereof) bright with a lavender honey dressing. Picked mud crab salad with notes of apple and peach is summer on a plate; duck breast with figs and Mediterranean spicing is impeccably cooked; and an angus fillet with smoked potato puree equally so. Dessert heroes include a chocolate delice with honeycomb and a light coconut panna cotta with brown sugar meringue.

And … The cellar door is right next door.

THE LOW-DOWN
Vibe Rustic idyll with wine to match
Best bit A sense of place.
Worst bit Not seeing the view at night.