Da Noi

'Have you been here before?' This is what black-clad waitstaff ask after settling you at a linen-and-paper-topped table. They will explain there is no menu at this narrow, two-level terrace. Ask for a rundown on today's Sardinian-inspired dishes - many using produce from owner Pietro Porcu's Yarck farm - or better still, settle back and trust the kitchen to deliver a procession of vibrant, generous plates. It might be antipasti, sometimes a soup, maybe pasta, some fish if you like, or meat. Offerings start small - perhaps salmon carpaccio with green tomato cream, juicy crumbed mussels in the shell, a little octopus - and get more robust. Slow-cooked goat might appear wrapped in pasta rosettes, in a citrus-scented broth dotted with diced vegetables. Fish might rest on barley mingling with crabmeat, capers and olives. Elegant dolce feature seasonal sorbets, perhaps with vanilla yoghurt mousse on a pistachio crust. Da Noi has soul in spades, and the quality of cooking to back it up.