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Dainty Sichuan

12/20

Chinese$$

Two escalator flights transport you to a utilitarian mega-restaurant where powerful flavours rule and service is more brisk than friendly. Loud conversation, barking waiters and pungent aromas fill this 300-seater, with the casually dolled-up young Asian set dictating the tone. Immerse yourself by sharing bold starters such as cold spicy beef heart and tongue, the taste of offal offset by heat and fragrant herbs. Cool cucumber planks, with sharp, raw garlic sauce, are a sensible accompaniment for defusing spice emergencies. Sichuan chicken is a provincial classic; avoid peppercorns and nibble around bones - no one will notice or care. Spicy chilli crab respects the crustacean, its flesh ever tender. Though plainer options exist, dried and fresh chilli infiltrate most of the dishes in the picture book menu. a love for heat is near-mandatory. No desserts. Expect to leave with your palate still alight with peppercorns, chillies and garlic, and the feeling you've just visited Shanghai or Hong Kong.

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