Dalmatino

Dangling baubles and a line of hanging lamps glow seductively in this exposed-brick-and-wood hall, trading Bay Street's buoyancy for the warmth of Adriatic hospitality. Sturdy dishes comprise most of the menu; you won't be left wanting for carbohydrates. The Croatian signature cevapcici, a skinless sausage, is lifted by capsicum and eggplant relish. Delicately battered calamari on crunchy apple and celery is a light introduction to heavier territory. Entrees such as excellent handmade potato dumplings, small bites of fluffiness settled in a rich beef stew, can be upgraded to mains. Smiling, informative staff may recommend Dalmatian fish stew, a melange of succulent seafood on a bed of polenta. Mains carry the gusto of the Mediterranean spirit, a reminder that hearty eating, matched with flowing wine and conversation, is an enriching experience. A short dessert list includes sour cherry and white chocolate parfait, and chocolate-filled dumplings.