Darband

The claims are true: the rice served at Darband really is astoundingly fluffy. Particularly great is the barberry rice, studded with tangy cranberry-like berries, served with a beautifully cooked chicken Maryland. A plate of fresh mint comes standard, with diners tearing off leaves to refresh the palate between mouthfuls, and each table has a shaker of sumac to add zing to rice or smoky lamb kebabs. Darband, named for an area north of Tehran, is popular with groups of men and young families, all feasting and sharing jugs of doogh (yoghurt drink, fizzy or flat). The decor is simple but surprisingly elegant, service is sufficient, and saffron ice-cream makes the perfect end to the meal.