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Darley's

Good Food hat15.5/20

As the manner in which we dine out changes, it's nice to fall back on the time-honoured rituals of fine dining and hospitality when a little restoration is needed. This stately 1880s former homestead has all the charm of yesteryear - open fire, wood panelling, carpeted dining room and huge, draped windows overlooking the mountains. Although service can seem a bit formal and you may feel compelled to speak in hushed tones, the beautifully modern aesthetic of young chef Lee Kwiez's plates is a great counterbalance. Sweet, gelatinous slow-cooked pork jowl finds an ally in poached abalone and kabu, a Japanese turnip, while beetroot shines brightly in a warm salad with local goat's curd. Smoked potato and madeira jus lifts a robust Mandagery Creek venison loin to new heights, while subtly seared john dory benefits from harissa and olive vinaigrette. You might think twice about sharing a glass of lemon curd, rhubarb sorbet and macaroon crumble.

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