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Dell 'Ugo, South Bank

Dell 'Ugo, South Bank Article Lead - narrow
Dell 'Ugo, South Bank Article Lead - narrowSupplied

14/20

Italian

Opening on to the South Bank parklands via wide bifold doors, Dell 'Ugo is the 'grown up' venue in what is arguably Brisbane's most populous casual dining enclave. The decor, ambience, menu, service and prices all say 'ristorante' as opposed to 'trattoria' and it's for these reasons the clientele is often corporate, mixed with special occasion diners. The extensive menu is a mix of classic and modern: antipasto has jamon Iberico instead of prosciutto, house-cured salmon is dressed with strawberries, fennel and rocket, and tiger prawns are wrapped in brik pastry. A pasta dish of prawn, garlic and zucchini linguine, topped with fresh pesto, is big on flavour and generously proportioned. Likewise calamari fritti; tender and delicious over a sorrel salad with flecks of chilli and garlic, while a jumbo Fiorentina invecchiata - a six-week dry-aged black angus T-bone served with horseradish cream and seeded Dijon mustard - can easily feed two with sides. Desserts are tweaked classics - the tiramisu is strawberry and panna cotta, rosewater-scented.

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