Denis the Menace

In the skinny back-streets of Richmond (Cremorne, actually, but no one calls it Cremorne), where drivers in oncoming cars breathe in when they pass each other, there's a warehouse cafe with so much space and garden that stepping inside it feels more like having just stepped outside. Fruiting cumquat trees between booths made from old apple crates and doors, little herb plants here and there, and a high, pitched ceiling for natural light to bounce around have all the attributes of an atrium.

Two-week-old Denis the Menace is the latest in a line of cafes from Adam Wilkinson, who started, then sold, St Edmonds in Prahran and Woodstock in Armadale. He's attributed a persona to this one that starts with the name, and continues through the minxish menu, full of puns and punchlines. "Oh, Shit-ake, Accidents happen … Carry on and keep eating" is the preamble to the soba, shiitake, seaweed, snowpea and eggplant dish that comes with a choice of creamy sesame or ponzu dressing.

"Something Fishy Going on Here, Nothing suss …" is a bright bed of pea puree, scattered with torn smoked trout, crispy red kale, asparagus pieces, steamed spinach and avocado topped with a poached egg ready to ooze all over it. It's a seamlessly textured dish, and a breath of fresh air.

Like every good kid, Denis the Menace has cuteness in small doses, which then runs along to let the grown-ups enjoy their meal in peace. Smile through the wordplay, and then, it's just you and some quietly sophisticated food that's consciously nutritious.

Early risers will be jogging in at 7am for acai and fruit smoothie served in a bowl, or raw shredded kale, broccoli, avocado and pistachios with buckwheat kernels, chilli and lemon dressing. Avocado on toast is brightened by heirloom tomatoes, slivers of radish and feta, and, if you're one of "those who like to annoy the chef", you'll add crispy pancetta and a poached egg.

If you speak Dietary Requirements, you won't need the key on the menu explaining what the string of a dozen or more letters after some dishes stands for: VG GF DF EF MF SOYF. I got tangled in the key trying to work out the distinction between V for Vegetarian and MF for Meat Free. Does MF + EF = V?

The open kitchen is an island in the middle of the space. Those in the booth seats can watch some of the action, while over the other side there's a cabinet of ready-mades to grab and go. And you might want to know that this kid has worms: 12,000 of them chewing through Seven Seeds coffee grounds in three farms out the back. Good boy, Denis.

Do ... Love sipping bottomless, free sparkling from recycled stubbies.
Dish ... Avo, We've Met Before (translation: smashed avocado on toast)
Vibe ... Nature Boy

goodfoodunder30@theage.com.au