French
BY FRENCH law every town must have a bakery. Villages that are too far-flung can have a ''depot de pain'', a ''bread depot'' where loaves baked offsite are delivered daily. It's on this piece of cultural history that George Christopoulos has based his bakeries that are popping up about town, each with quirks to suit its neighbourhood.
Eighteen months ago he bought, renovated and expanded French Fantasies, a South Yarra bakery, and now Depot de Pain's parent company. Carlton North's Depot, on a prime corner opposite the park, has been open three months. Another, in Hawthorn, is due to open next month and a city Depot in Alfred Place is expected early next year.
Two more, including Jacques Depot de Pain (named after Christopoulos's partner), are up and running.
He's no restaurant slacker, yet hospitality was second choice for Christopoulos. As a 17-year-old he played professional soccer, representing Australia. His career - cut short by injury - ended about the time brother Con finished his diploma at William Angliss catering college.
In 1984 the brothers opened Bar Biffi, then Port Melbourne's Rose and Crown, before forging solo paths. For George, that meant opening Melbourne's ragingly successful Belgian Beer Cafes.
But back to Carlton North. The cosy Depot has a kooky, three-room layout. Banquette seats are in the front room, and there's a rustic second room with polished boards and bentwood chairs. Out the back are comfy white-leather ottomans and a striking communal table from Belgium.
Breakfasts here are brilliant. Omelets come in three flavours: with herbs, house-smoked salmon, or as a soft-cooked disc folded around Meredith goat's cheese.
Runny poached eggs are slathered with textbook hollandaise, with enough lemon to balance the butter, served on one thick fluffy slice of toast fried until golden. You'll need the freshly squeezed orange juice, real and home-style with flavour and pulp.
Don't expect bechamel in the croque madame, an awesome sandwich, with buttery fried bread holding melted gruyere, dijon, smoked ham and a fried egg on top.
Sides, such as crisp bacon or confit tomato, come in a bowl for sharing if you're breakfasting in a group.
Cakes and pastries are delivered daily, and include eclairs with fresh, beautiful choux pastry and deliciously squidgy and squelchy coffee- or chocolate-custard fillings.
Another ripper was the raspberry mousse with whole raspberries suspended in the fluffy mousse, decorated with a chocolate square. It's a work of art, the time it took to make in no way commensurate with its scoffability. Less exciting was the gelatin-heavy apple normande.
French cheeses and breads are for sale, along with Lyonnaise and Toulouse sausages and tall jars of empty coquilles (snail shells) for serving up with escargot.
Depot de Pain is a terrific new local, which, after all, is Christopoulos's point. It will be even better with outdoor seating and a liquor licence, which are in the works.
Restaurant reviews, news and the hottest openings served to your inbox.
Sign up