Duke Bistro

There's been a changing of the guard in the kitchen at Duke. Thomas Lim and Mitch Orr have left the building, handing the crown to Nicholas Hill, who has cooked at Quay and the Ledbury in London. Still, the regal green and floral-toned pub dining room has lost none of its sense of fun. Waiters approach diners like long-lost friends, while loyal subjects party their way through a menu that reads like an extended shopping list. A couple of the old guard's dishes remain, including the fried chicken wings, but Hill has mostly imposed his own dish DNA. Technical skills picked up at the pointy end are evident in creations such as an almost mousse-like prawn lasagne. Lamb shoulder is a return to Duke's more rustic roots, a clever high-wire act that takes in dried olive and rich goat's cheese puree, while the bite-sized brown sugar parfait will get any Duke's blue blood racing.