Eleonore's

Gentlemen, a collared shirt, if you will. Please, no denim. Turn your mobile off. you're entering a world where things are Done Properly. And what fun it is to sip champagne in the 19th-century mansion's ornate Blue Drawing Room before being ushered into the long, luxurious dining hall with its burgundy walls, gilt fittings and mountain views. Sit at a double-clothed table set with hallmarked silver and peruse what turns out to be a thoroughly 21st-century menu. Juicy coins of lobster and scallop ceviche nestle in cool watermelon broth dotted with alpine strawberries; tiles of crisp-skinned suckling pig come with rhubarb relish and black pepper jus. Patagonian toothfish is moist and flaky, with avocado puree and small chimneys of crab-filled 'cannelloni'; charry sirloin is served with bordelaise and pearls of marrow. For dessert, perhaps choose a rectangle of pear tart with cider sorbet and popping mint fizz. Adept young staff bridge the gulf between formality and modernity.