Emma’s trio of house dips is unbeatable: the hummus, smoky babaghanoush and labna are intensely flavourful. Fried flatbread comes on the side, but scooping up the deliciousness with the soft fresh stuff is more fun. Aromatic spiced fish with tahini demonstrates restraint, while crisp eggplant with lamb mince, cucumber and mint is a revelation (just how are those eggplant cubes fried to such light, golden perfection?). Matriarch Emma Sofy once ran a corner store in this space, but since 2001 she and her family have given the neighbourhood a much greater gift in this eatery exuding convivial hospitality.
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